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Article by Michael Franz, The Washington Post (Wednesday, May 9, 2001)

Don't Cry For Malbec

Are wines from the New World catching up to those of Europe in terms of quality? The answer to this question -- which I am asked quite frequently -- is an emphatic yes. Across North and South America, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, advances in winemaking and (especially) viticulture are narrowing the quality gap between these wines and their European counterparts at a steady and clearly discernible pace.

Nevertheless, if we ask about the relative merits of New and Old World wines with a somewhat different question, the continuing strength of European wines becomes apparent. How many New World wines consistently attain quality levels rivaling the top performers from Europe? In my view, only four: Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, Shiraz from Australia, Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and Malbec from Argentina.

The last of these four is probably the least well known among American consumers, but that simply means that one can still get a good deal here on Argentine Malbec. Not long ago, Malbec from Argentina was little more than a promising curiosity, but today so many producers are turning out wines of such high quality with such impressive consistency that anybody with an open mind and a decent palate must conclude that Argentine Malbec has become one of the world's great wines.

You don't have to take my word for it. Imitation may be the sincerest form of flattery, but investment is the surest form of corroboration, and during recent years significant investments in Argentine vineyards have been made by wine groups based in France, Austria, the United States, Spain, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy, Portugal and even Chile.

Most of the money is flowing into the area around Mendoza, on the western side of the country at the base of the Andes. The area is very sunny and dry but also relatively cool, as most vineyards are planted at altitudes above 2,800 feet. The grapes grow in very conducive conditions with little rot and few harmful insects or diseases and can attain complex flavors thanks to a long growing season. Vines must be irrigated and water is scarce (only 3.5 percent of the arable land around Mendoza is actually farmed because of this shortage), which has had the desirable effect of restricting grape growing to excellent sites.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc can all produce interesting wine in Argentina, but Malbec is the clear star. The grape was brought from France over a century ago, and since then it has gradually adapted to the peculiarities of local growing conditions. The wines are typically full-bodied and very flavorful, with predominant aromatic notes of dark berries, violets and sweet black licorice.

Although Malbecs are full of flavor and character, they tend to be very soft in texture with extremely fine-grained tannins, and as a result they are easy to enjoy even when very young. This textural profile is especially striking when winemakers make moderate use of oak, which is not -- sadly -- always the case.

Top bottlings from my recent tastings that are currently available at the wholesale level in our area are listed below in order of preference. As you will see, prices vary widely (and indeed they would vary even more widely if several ultra-premium bottlings such as Catena "Alta" and Alta Vista "Alto" were not currently out of stock), but the value of each of the recommended wines is very strong. Approximate prices and D.C. wholesalers are indicated in parentheses, as are appellations from wines hailing from areas other than Mendoza.

Outstanding

Luca 1999 ($41, Wine Source), Terrazas "Gran Malbec" 1997 ($30, National), Tikal "Amorio" 1999 ($27, Wine Source), Terrazas Reserva 1999 ($23, National), Altos Las Hormigas Reserva 2000 ($25, Bacchus), Felipe Rutini Reserva 1997 ($21, Wines, Ltd.), Susana Balbo 1999 ($27, Wine Source)

Very Good

SValentin Bianchi (San Rafael) 1997 ($15, Wines, Ltd.), Catena 1999 ($24, Wines, Ltd.), Terrazas "Alto" 1999 ($9, National), Santa Julia Reserva 1999 ($10.50, Franklin), Alamos 1999 ($12, Wine Source), Alta Vista 1997 ($15, Constantine), Don Miguel Gascon (Bodegas Escorihuela) 1999 ($12, Winebow), Bodega Norton 1998 ($10, Wine Source), Trapiche "Oak Cask" 1997 ($9, National), Trumpeter (Tupungato) 1999 ($10, Wines, Ltd.), Elsa (San Rafael) 1999 ($8.50, Wines, Ltd.)

 

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